Each part is needed once for one buzzer.
Part | Shop | Order number | Note |
---|---|---|---|
Push button | Conrad | 701103 - 62 | |
Case | Conrad | 1279514 - 62 | Not recommended, has no bottom plate... |
XLR connector (male) | Conrad | 651107 - 62 | Neutrik NC3MAAV |
XLR cable (10m) | Thomann | 128513 |
Part | Quantity | Shop | Order number | Note |
---|---|---|---|---|
Arduino Micro | 1 | Reichelt | ARDUINO MICRO | |
Stripboard | 1 | Reichelt | H25SR100 | |
Socket strip | 3 | Conrad | 736765 - 62 | |
Pin strip | 2 | Conrad | 737752 - 62 | |
Case | 1 | Reichelt | TEKO 364 | |
Wire (yellow) | 1 | Reichelt | LITZE GE | |
Wire (red) | 1 | Reichelt | LITZE RT | |
Wire (blue) | 1 | Reichelt | LITZE BL | |
XLR connector (female) | 18 | Conrad | 651096 - 62 | Neutrik NC3FAAV1 |
Neutrik screws | 1 | Thomann | 300310 | A-Screw-1-8 for Neutrik XLR |
Additionally there is a USB-B jack screwed into the case and connected to the Arduino. The controller then is connected with an USB-A to USB-B cable. This seems to be a more robust solution than exposing the Micro USB connector of the Arduino.
Pin | Color | |
---|---|---|
1 | GND | blue |
2 | +5V | red |
3 | Signal | yellow |
To trigger a button, GND and the signal pin need to be connected. +5V are available since we have a third wire in the XLR cable, maybe it is useful some day.
On the controller board, the pin next to the Arduino is the signal pin and and therefore needs to be connected to the yellow wire.
- The internal pull-ups of the Arduino are used
- The Arduino is not soldered on the board but connected using the socket strips, therefore it is quite easy to replace it.
- The order of the button numbers can be changed in the Arduino sketch in
firmware/firmware.ino
. You may need to fix this again after disassembling the hardware.